Elisabeth II: Queen of style
Half-mast flag on Buckingham Palace for the death of its longest-lived tenant: Elizabeth II passed away on 8 September after 70 years of commendable reign.
If currently the appellation icon tends to be wasted, placed side by side with the name of the English monarch seems to take on a whole other meaning. Second only to the Sun King in terms of permanence on a throne, Elizabeth over the years managed to create around herself an aura of golden uniqueness, so much so that she almost appeared to be a figure that transcended human beings. Witness the reaction of astonishment mixed with regret that involved most of us once we learned the news of her death, as if it were not the normal course of life for a woman who had recently turned 96. Ah, wasn't she immortal?
And if in these days the United Kingdom is mourning one of the most beloved sovereigns in its history, the fashion world is saying goodbye to one of its dime piece. In parallel with her institutional image, in fact, Elizabeth II was also able to build over time a highly recognizable look, made up of impeccable outfits, in a triumph of class, measure and elegance that made her one of the most significant style icons of recent years.
If you are a monarch you have to dress accordingly, and in this Queen Elizabeth has been an undeniable professional, always looking perfectly comfortable in everything she wears. As "Her Majesty", we have always been accustomed to seeing her perform her royal duties wearing standard outfits made up of perfectly coordinated dresses, coats, caps and handbags.
The sense of duty that made her what she was and for which we will remember her ensured that her true nature, decidedly more country than what we have been accustomed to, never leaked out. Having happened on the throne at only 25 years of age due to a stumble in history, which saw her uncle Edward VIII renounce the kingdom for love and the untimely death of his successor, her father George VI, in Elizabeth's dreams, rather than a life at court, were the countryside and horses. And indeed, in the shots that have been stolen from her over these years during the Royal Windsor Horses Show, a major event dedicated to horses, or in her stays at Balmoran, where she was free to play with her corgis, we seem to catch her finally in her element, in a more relaxed atmosphere in which she could finally indulge in a little less formalism.
The country look that made her a perfect English country woman included tartan or tweed skirts that were pleated and long to below the knee, blouses, sweaters, some flesh-colored opaque stockings, comfortable shoes with bangs or tassels, and rubber boots in case of rain. All embellished with the ever-present head scarf by Hermès, which often featured canine or equestrian illustrations, both
passions of the sovereign. Her favorite colors for these occasions are all shades of blue, light blue, and in some cases, not without a hint of audacity and with a lot of desire to experiment, she also dared red or pink outfits.
If in her country version and this newfound sense of freedom what the Queen wore closest to a handbag was a shoulder strap in which to store the camera with which to capture her husband Philip galloping, in more formal settings things were decidedly different.
The iconic Launer, clutched in her hands or resting on her forearm for a lifetime, has over time become her fetish object, and while it may over the years have looked like always the same bag, it will not escape the notice of the most discerning eyes that, in fact, it was many variations on the same theme: from those in black leather and with a rounded flap, to those in shiny black and squarer, to models that changed shape and color, such as the bespoke version that also included a purse, a mirror and a silk lining.
As far as details were concerned, the Queen had clear ideas: the handle necessarily had to be longer, so that it would not get in her way; the inside, on the other hand, had to be free of impediments
of any kind, whether zippers, dividers, or pockets, so that she could reach with her hand as immediately as possible the object she was looking for.
But worn by Queen Elizabeth, the bag was no longer just a bag. If the contents seem to have been quite ordinary, with lipstick, a mirror and eyeglasses, the way the sovereign decided to move her Launer sent coded messages: if the bag went from one arm to the other, someone had to intervene to relieve her of a conversation she considered over; if, on the other hand, it appeared on the table, within five minutes it had to clear. And the list goes on: for out-of-the-ordinary personalities, equally sui generis stories.
«I have to be seen to be believed», she would say. Indeed, colorful dresses were always a trademark and served to create a bond with her people, who had to be able to say they had seen her when they flocked somewhere for her. Relegating black to mourning, the clothes worn by Elizabeth II touched a number of shades that is difficult to quantify for someone who became queen back in 1952 and who, among her countless public appearances, sported hundreds of coats paired with as many accessories.
Just as the bag was not just a bag, colors were not just colors for a woman who made unflappability one of her hallmarks. Choosing to wear one shade rather than another could take on important symbolic significance and convey specific messages especially related to the mood of the sovereign, who let her clothes speak for her: bright, vivid colors conveyed serenity, while brown and beige heralded discontent.
And to close out all her looks, the iconic five-heeled loafer with the unmistakable gold double clamp decoration by Anello&Davide, a historic West London brand specializing in custom-made shoes and for years among the official suppliers of the royal family.
But has the Queen ever worn pants? Although protocol requires the women of the Royal family to wear skirts or dresses at official events, with exemption during hunting trips or on horseback rides, thus as a luxury to be relegated to moments of relaxation, Elizabeth II has given us about a dozen public appearances in pants. In 1945, for example, we see her in men's work clothes learning how
to change a car wheel as an auxiliary officer in the British Army, while in 1958 she visited the Rothes Colliery mine in a full dress suit and hard hat.
Tailor Ian Thomas in 1970, commissioned to design a series of new outfits to be worn on the Grand Tour in Canada, tailored an elongated, collarless double-breasted jacket paired with a pair of straight-leg pants. This outfit will go down in history because it seemed a prelude to something new, as for the first time a trouser was worn for an official engagement.
Also dating back to the 1970s is a photo that only resurfaced in 2008, which shows Queen Elizabeth on the beach while smiling, wearing a hat to protect her noble pallor from the sun, a blouse and flared pants that even look like denim. Perhaps the same ones she wore while in Kenya with Philip when she received the news of her father's death and subsequent accession to the throne.
The last times the sovereign has been shown in clothes other than the ones we are used to imagining her in were in 2003, when she was photographed in a gray suit as she exited the hospital after knee surgery, and a few years later, in 2010, during a family vacation to the Scottish islands aboard the Hebridean Princess.
With her death an entire era comes to a close, that of a woman who, having lived straddling two centuries, was able to dictate her own rules of style (and more). All that remains for us is to pick up her legacy and continue to revere her outfits in perfect Pantone scale as much as the country chic looks. Now and always, God save the Queen.
