The Volume of Change
Courrèges, Alaïa and Schiaparelli, three historical maisons that decide to guard their strong DNA, but with a 21st century twist.
Texan fashion designer, Daniel Roseberry, became one of the most seen men when decided to dress Bella Hadid, with an iconic Shaparelli look. A wool crepe dress, whose neckline was covered by a huge brass pendant that reproduced the bronchial tree. Inaugurating a path of majestic creations to be captured by the publics’ eye.
The first American designer to design for a Parisian brand, follows his instinct, he values Elsa Shciaparelli’s work, creating big emphasis on her autobiography Shocking Life, but still managing to follow his third eye. He often says “if you don’t follow your instinct, then what do you follow?”
His ability is in never going further than the separation between elegance and theatricality.
“What makes Fashion attractive is the dream,” says Roseberry. “It’s not about being cool. The greatest satisfaction is seeing people emotionally involved.”
Peter Muiler, when he entered Alaïa in late February 2021, he had a clear vision. It had to be about Beauty, Body, and Sex. To which he heard the answer: “You can't use the word sex. You have to say sensual ”. Then responded: “No, it's really about sex” ». Then he adds: «Sex is considered vulgar in the fashion houses. But we treat it differently: it's a sex that comes from the heart, the soul, it's about self-confidence. This is where beauty lies”
Always keeping in hand with his creations, Azzedine Alaïa’s cult models, to be inspired of. A genetic that will never be ripped off, the brand has a core and everything will surround and protect it.
In the other hand, he thinks this a brand, that need to reach a wider audience, a more vast public, his latest collection, SS 2023, was taken favorably by taking a less curated direction, he concludes by saying that it will take time but “Alaïa has time for everything.”
Welcome to Courrèges, in 2022 (circa).
The hems are short, the cut-outs are bold, the sensual fabrics, all the characteristics that already define the maison founded in 1961 by André and Coqueline Courrèges. The difference between now and back then? The fabrics are eco-conscious: the typical vinyl now comprises 70% polyurethane while it is recycled of plant origin with an organic cotton base, the classic rib knit is 70% viscose. The prices are also the lowest available, in line with those of the available vintage garments: the vinyl jacket now costs 750 euros, compared to 1,090 four years ago. And the focus has shifted to freedom, for all ages, bodies and identities.
Notes by Nicolas di Felice, 38 year old, Belgian designer, who took the role of creative director of Courrèges in the late 2020, after being hand in hand with Nicolas Ghesquière for at least 12 years.
“Today, in my opinion, being sexy, means giving an impression of freedom. Having the air of a person that truly feels itself.” -di Felice for Vogue Italia
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